How Much Does New Garden Fencing Cost?

What Drives the Price

1. Length and height

The obvious pair. Length determines materials and post count; height determines panel cost and, above two metres, potentially planning permission. Note that cost per metre usually falls slightly on longer runs, because set-up and disposal are spread further.

2. Panel style

3. Posts — the decision that matters most

• Timber posts cost less initially and rot where they enter the soil. That is where fences fail
• Concrete posts cost more initially and do not rot at ground level
• Gravel boards keep the bottom of the panel clear of wet ground, which extends panel life considerably
• Concrete posts plus gravel boards is usually the cheaper option measured over the life of the fence
• Post spacing and depth matter more than the panels for how the fence survives wind
• This is the single best place to spend more if the budget is tight somewhere

4. Ground conditions

• Sloping ground means stepping or racking the panels — more work either way
• Tree roots can make digging post holes slow and occasionally impossible in the ideal position
• Buried concrete from a previous fence has to come out
• Rock or heavy clay slows every hole
• Services — cables and pipes near a boundary must be located before digging
• Made ground or soft fill may need deeper posts

5. Removing the old fence

Taking out an existing fence is real work and real disposal cost, especially where old concrete posts are set in substantial footings. It is worth asking whether a quote includes removal and disposal, because it is a common difference between two prices that otherwise look similar.

6. Access

Panels are bulky and awkward. A boundary reachable from the road is straightforward; one reachable only through a house or along a narrow alley adds significant handling time to every panel and every barrow of spoil.

Before You Order Anything

• Check the height rules. Generally two metres maximum in a rear garden without permission, one metre where the boundary adjoins a road or footpath
• Check for a conservation area or listed building, where restrictions are tighter
• Talk to your neighbour — access from their side is often needed
• Agree the line before posts go in, not after
• Consider the finished side — conventionally the smooth face goes outward, though it is not a legal requirement

Where People Regret Saving Money

• Timber posts instead of concrete — the most common false economy
• Skipping gravel boards, so panels sit in wet soil and rot from the bottom
• Posts not set deep enough, which shows up in the first serious wind
• Cheapest lap panels on an exposed boundary, where closeboard would have lasted
• Leaving old concrete in the ground and working around it

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