Because it is being cut in a way that makes it wider. Almost every over-wide hedge was made that way by its trimming.
Because each cut is taken just outside the last one. Trimming to the outside of the previous year's growth adds a little width every single year, and over a decade that compounds into a considerable amount of garden.
The fix is cutting back into the previous cut line, not just off the new growth — which needs a species that will take it.
| Ground occupied | |
|---|---|
| The hedge itself | Often a metre or more of depth when mature |
| Root spread | Extends well beyond the visible width |
| Dry shadow beneath and beside | A strip where little grows |
| Access space to cut it | A further margin |
| Shade cast | Affects well beyond the footprint |
On a compact garden this adds up to a meaningful share of the usable space, which is usually what prompts the question in the first place.
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Because each trim is taken just outside the previous year's cut line rather than into it. That adds a little width every year, and over a decade it compounds.
Cut back to the same line each year rather than off the new growth, and re-establish a slight taper. A string line makes the target obvious.
On species that regrow from old wood — yew, privet, laurel, beech, hornbeam, hawthorn, holly — yes, one face at a time across two seasons. Most conifers cannot.
Almost always because it has become wider at the top, shading out its own base. Once that has happened it is very slow to recover.
A hedge cut slightly narrower at the top than the bottom, so light reaches the base and keeps the lower growth dense.
Often a metre or more of depth, plus root spread, a dry shadow where little grows, and access space to cut it.
Better not, on a severe reduction. One face, then the other the following year, gives the hedge time to respond.
The cut face will be bare for a season on most species. Deciduous hedges recover quickly; conifers may not recover at all.
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