Usually dramatically — block paving is one of the most rewarding surfaces to clean. The re-sanding afterwards is not optional.
Yes, and the difference is often striking. Block paving holds dirt in its joints and its texture, so cleaning it returns colour most owners have forgotten it had.
But washing removes the jointing sand, and that has to be replaced. Without it the blocks lose their interlock and start to move under vehicles.
Tell us what you need and we will arrange a free quotation.
| Problem | Reality |
|---|---|
| Sunken or dipped areas | Sub-base failure — needs lifting and relaying |
| Rocking blocks | Lost interlock; re-sanding may help, may not |
| Cracked or broken blocks | Individual replacement; matching is imperfect |
| Spreading at the edges | Failed edge restraint — a repair job |
| Deep oil staining | Improves, may not fully clear |
| Colour fade from UV | Sealing helps; cleaning does not restore it |
| Weeds returning | Normal; treat early or seal |
As with any surface, washing reveals condition rather than causing it. A drive that looks acceptable under green film and poor when clean was always in that condition — the growth was hiding it.
Sealing block paving genuinely helps — it slows re-soiling, suppresses weed growth in the joints, stabilises the sand and deepens colour. It is not permanent, needing reapplication every few years, and it must go onto a fully dry, freshly cleaned and re-sanded surface. It is a worthwhile option rather than an essential one, and it makes most sense on a drive you have just spent money restoring.
See what our power washing service covers in Hengrove, or read more about the service across the areas we work in.
Usually dramatically. The colour is in the block rather than a coating, so cleaning returns colour most owners have forgotten it had.
Because the blocks interlock rather than being mortared, and the jointing sand transfers load between them. Without it they rock, spread and sink under vehicles.
Kiln-dried jointing sand, brushed in and settled once the surface is dry. It will not brush into wet joints.
No. Dips indicate sub-base failure and need the area lifting and relaying. Cleaning reveals the problem rather than causing it.
They improve. Deep oil soaked into porous blocks over years may lighten rather than clear entirely.
It is worth considering. Sealing slows re-soiling, suppresses joint weeds and stabilises the sand, but needs a fully dry surface and reapplying every few years.
Seeds land in the joints and germinate. Proper re-sanding and sealing both slow it, and treating them early stops them establishing.
Every two to three years on an open sunny drive, annually on one that is shaded or under trees.
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